The People

We had the opportunity to meet many Cuban people, both in Cuba and in Miami.  We were struck by how kind and welcoming everyone was.  No matter where we were, Cubans were engaging, open and very willing to chat.  Cubans are known to be incredibly social.  On an average day, ten to fifteen people walk through the typical Cuban home.

A short description of each person we met, along with their point of view, follows;

Miguel Coyula, Architect:  Miguel presented an architectural history of the island.  In 1565, there were 500 Havana residents and 500 sailors on ships in the Bay.  This presented a significant challenge in terms of food and water for the sailors.  A system of aqueducts was built drawing water to Havana from the mountains.  The oldest fortress in the Americas was built and a wall was constructed around the city.  By 1762, the island had been overtaken by the British but malaria and yellow fever ended British rule in eleven months.  They followed the Spanish and themselves were followed by Asians who built one of the first railroads in the world.  The architecture of Havana is a blend of ornate Spanish/Moorish structures and cement cubes provided by the Soviets.  Average age of Havana buildings is 75 years and in great need of restoration.  Everyday, on average, three building collapse in Havana.  The buildings were largely crumbling, peeling or rusting.  About 5% have been renovated.

 Alicia Peres, Tour Guide:  Alicia was our Cuban tour guide, an employee of the state, and an exceptional representative of her country.  She is quite proud of Cuba, thrilled to see American travelers and clear about the mistakes made by her country.  She is the daughter of two physicians, who fought in the revolution, the mother of a seven year old, a lead guide for Havana Tours and, often, an outspoken, but balanced, critic of her country.  When the Soviets pulled out in the mid-90's, Alicia's family survived by funding a rice farmer and consuming a portion of his crops.  Alicia is a graduate of the University of Havana and highly knowledgeable of her country, its people and their culture.  She applied for, and was denied, a visa to travel to the US.

Juan Valdez, National Geographic Expert:  Juan was born in Cuba and transported to the US at the advent of the revolution.  He was seven years old--one of the so-called Peter Pan kids.  He was lucky since he was rejoined to his parents and brother, who had been sent to Wyoming, just six months after his arrival in the US.  Many Peter Pan kids never saw their families again.  Juan's family settled in Washington, DC and he went onto become the lead cartographer for National Geographic.  His first of three lectures in Cuba was on the people of Cuba, staring with the Indians who came from Florida and Central America; the Spanish and the Irish who built cultural centers, established banking and retail; the French, fleeing Louisiana during the Civil War; the Africans, who, today, represent the highest population of the island; the Asians, who came to build the railroad; and the Europeans, fleeing War in Europe and the Americans.  

After the revolution, 2.5M Cubans migrated to the US and other parts of the world.  Juan's other lectures were about maps and map making--a fascinating process.  Everywhere we went, Juan had a gift of a suitable map for everyone we visited.  When we were with the Choir of Cienfuegos, who will be competing in Montana this summer in the International Choral Competition, he gave them a map of the US with a pin indicating Missoula, Montana.  They were thrilled.  Juan's favorite saying was:  "Once a Cuban, Always a Cuban."

Dr. Rosa Lopez, Economist:  Dr. Lopez is a University of Havana Economist.  She has taught there for 48 years.  She discussed the Cuban economic model, the US embargo and its effect on the economy, the application of the Soviet model and Cuba's economic mistakes. Chief among the mistakes is the two currencies followed by the extreme control of the state that led to forced full employment and the discouragement of small business.  Current economic goals include:  making socialism more sustainable, encouraging major foreign investments and widening and deepening the ports.  Dr. Lopez was forceful in her views and hopeful that Cuba could undertake economic reforms without losing its soul.

Professor Marta Nunez, Sociologist:  Professor Nunez teaches Sociology to Brown University students studying in Cuba.  She described Cuban society as highly patriarchal and quite homophobic.  While a tenant of the party is to be broadly accepting, that does not always happen.  Two-thirds of all professionals are women but governmental leaders tend to be men.  Sixty percent of Cuba's 67 universities' faculty are women.  Forty-nine percent of Parliament is female.  Yet, only 37% of managers, in the workplace, are women.  Professor Nunez was soft-spoken but also firm in her views.

Marc Frank, American Journalist and author of Cuban Revelations:  Marc has lived and worked in Havana for 25 years.  He is an employee of ABC and Reuters and is married to a Cuban woman.  He spoke about the many recent changes from the opening of relations with the US to the strong support Cuba receives from other Caribbean islands and Central American countries, who all had a hand in the US/Cuba thaw.  The more democratic these nations became, the more they welcomed Cuba.  In 1964, every country in the western hemisphere, with the exception of Mexico and Canada, worked with the US to topple Castro.  Today, everyone, but the US, has normalized relations with Cuba.  Cuba is changing, as well.  It has accepted greater responsibility for its own problems; greater acceptance of open and candid communications; and lifting restrictions on travel, small business, personal property and the internet.  Ending subsidies, ending two currencies and levying taxes is being discussed.  

Cristine Escobar, Cuban Journalist:  Cristine was the first Cuban journalist to visit the White House in 55 years, as part of the Cuban delegation following the change in travel restrictions and re-establishment of embassies.  She was educated in Cuba and clearly an excellent representative of her people.  Cristine said she felt Cuba had one year to prove itself--before there was a new US President, who could reverse the Executive Orders of President Obama.  2016 is to be a year of joint ventures with plans to sign 40 such agreements for $2.5B a year.  Only the US is not a participant and that might change.  One US Governor a week visits Cuban exploring economic possibilities.  While we were in Havana, two US governors were at our hotel.  Cristine, responding to a question, stated that Cubans want the return of Guantanamo.  They believe the Platt Amendment, which allows its existence, to be illegal.  What happens at Guantanamo is not so much the issue as their belief that the land is theirs.  

Committee for the Defense of the Revolution (CDR):  One evening, following dinner, we visited a neighborhood in Havana and met with the neighbors living in one apartment block, which is a CDR.  CDR's were established during the revolution as a device to keep everyone marching in the same direction as the party.  Today CDR's are more focused on neighbor health and welfare and community issues.  Nonetheless, their control characteristic still exists.  The CDR we visited was very welcoming, with hugs and song.  Our group sang the National Anthem for them--not too poor a rendition.  They opened their apartments to us, shared food and drink and seemed genuinely happy to meet us.

Carlos and Maria:  At our Havana hotel, our waiter, Carlos, told us his story of fleeing to Mexico ten years ago and entering the US via that route.  As a small child, he listened to American music on the radio and was fascinated with our culture.  He did not believe there were opportunities for him in Cuba.  He disdained the socialist state that, ultimately, kept almost everyone in poverty.  Maria served us at an airport restaurant and had a very similar story to that of Carlos.  She, too, felt that America was the land of opportunity and that there was nothing for her in Cuba.